Getting your hair highlighted is an investment, both in time and money. You want to make sure your new color stays vibrant and your hair remains healthy. One of the most crucial aspects of maintaining highlighted hair is knowing when to wash it after the salon visit. Washing too soon can lead to color fade, brassiness, and dryness. But waiting too long can leave your scalp oily and uncomfortable. So, what’s the magic number? Let’s dive into the world of hair science and expert recommendations to uncover the ideal waiting period.
The Science Behind Hair Highlights and Color Fading
To understand why waiting is important, let’s first explore how hair highlights work and why they are susceptible to fading. Hair highlights involve using chemicals, primarily lighteners and colorants, to alter the natural pigment of your hair strands.
The process typically involves opening the hair cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair shaft, to allow the lightening agents to penetrate and break down the melanin, which gives your hair its natural color. After lightening, toner is often applied to achieve the desired shade and neutralize unwanted tones like yellow or orange.
This entire process, while transformative, can leave the hair cuticle more porous and vulnerable. When you wash your hair, water seeps into the hair shaft, causing it to swell. This swelling can dislodge the color molecules, leading to fading and brassiness. The more porous your hair, the faster the color will fade.
Why New Highlights are More Vulnerable
Freshly highlighted hair is particularly susceptible to color fading because the cuticle hasn’t fully closed and sealed after the chemical process. Think of it like this: your hair’s protective shield is temporarily weakened. Washing too soon after highlighting increases the chances of color molecules escaping through the open cuticle, resulting in a duller, less vibrant color.
Additionally, the toners used to achieve the perfect highlight shade are often semi-permanent or demi-permanent. This means they don’t penetrate as deeply into the hair shaft as permanent dyes. Therefore, they are more easily washed away, especially in the initial days after application.
The Role of Shampoo in Color Fading
Shampoo, while essential for cleansing, can also contribute to color fading. Many traditional shampoos contain sulfates, which are strong detergents that strip away dirt, oil, and unfortunately, also color. Sulfates can open the hair cuticle further, making it easier for color molecules to escape.
The pH level of your shampoo also plays a role. Shampoos with a high pH level can cause the hair cuticle to open, while shampoos with a low pH level help to close it. Using a shampoo with a high pH level on freshly highlighted hair can accelerate color fading.
The 48-72 Hour Rule: Myth or Must?
You’ve probably heard the common advice: wait at least 48 to 72 hours before washing your hair after getting it highlighted. But is this just an old wives’ tale, or is there scientific merit to it? The truth lies somewhere in between.
The 48-72 hour rule is based on the understanding that it takes time for the hair cuticle to fully close and seal after a highlighting service. This allows the color molecules to settle and bond more effectively within the hair shaft. Waiting reduces the likelihood of immediate color loss.
Why Waiting Matters: Expert Opinions
Most professional hairstylists recommend waiting at least 48 hours before washing highlighted hair. Some even suggest waiting up to 72 hours, especially if you have particularly porous or damaged hair. They advise this because they see the results firsthand. Clients who wait longer between washes tend to have more vibrant, longer-lasting color.
They often emphasize the importance of using color-safe shampoo and conditioner, regardless of how long you wait, to further protect the color and maintain hair health.
Factors Affecting the Waiting Time
While the 48-72 hour rule is a good guideline, several factors can influence how long you should actually wait before washing your highlighted hair.
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Hair Type: Fine hair tends to get oily faster than thick hair, potentially tempting you to wash it sooner. However, fine hair is also often more delicate and prone to damage, so waiting the full 48-72 hours is usually recommended. Coarse hair can typically handle longer periods between washes, as it’s less prone to oiliness.
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Hair Condition: Damaged or chemically treated hair is more porous and loses color faster. If your hair is already dry or damaged, waiting longer before washing is crucial to prevent further color fading and dryness. Healthy, virgin hair, on the other hand, may be able to withstand washing slightly sooner.
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Highlighting Technique: Different highlighting techniques can affect how long you should wait. For example, babylights, which are very fine and subtle highlights, may not require as long a waiting period as chunky, bold highlights. Techniques that involve a greater degree of lightening may require a longer waiting time.
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Products Used: The quality and type of products used during and after the highlighting process can also impact color retention. Using bond-building treatments, such as Olaplex or similar products, can strengthen the hair and help to seal the cuticle, potentially allowing you to wash your hair sooner.
Extending the Life of Your Highlights: Beyond the Waiting Game
Waiting the recommended time before washing is just one piece of the puzzle. To truly extend the life of your highlights and keep your hair looking its best, you need to adopt a comprehensive hair care routine.
Choosing the Right Shampoo and Conditioner
As mentioned earlier, using color-safe shampoo and conditioner is essential for maintaining highlighted hair. Look for products that are specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are typically sulfate-free and have a lower pH level, which helps to prevent color fading and maintain the hair’s natural moisture balance.
Ingredients like antioxidants and UV filters can also help to protect your hair from environmental damage, which can contribute to color fading. Avoid shampoos with harsh chemicals or clarifying agents, as these can strip away color and leave your hair dry and brittle.
The Benefits of Dry Shampoo
Dry shampoo can be a lifesaver for extending the time between washes. It absorbs excess oil and grease from the scalp, leaving your hair looking clean and refreshed without the need for water.
Choose a dry shampoo that is specifically designed for color-treated hair to avoid any potential color distortion. Apply it sparingly and evenly to the roots, and then brush it through to distribute the product.
Lowering the Water Temperature
Washing your hair with hot water can cause the hair cuticle to open, leading to color fading and dryness. Opt for lukewarm or cool water instead. Cool water helps to seal the cuticle, locking in color and moisture.
Protecting Your Hair from Heat Styling
Heat styling tools, such as hair dryers, curling irons, and straighteners, can damage highlighted hair and cause the color to fade faster. Always use a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools.
Try to minimize your use of heat styling tools whenever possible. Air-drying your hair is a healthier option, and you can still achieve beautiful styles without heat.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Highlighted hair is often more prone to dryness and damage, so regular deep conditioning treatments are essential for maintaining its health and vibrancy. Use a deep conditioner at least once a week to replenish moisture, strengthen the hair, and prevent breakage.
Look for deep conditioners that contain nourishing ingredients like argan oil, shea butter, and keratin. Apply the deep conditioner to damp hair, focusing on the ends, and leave it on for 10-20 minutes before rinsing thoroughly.
Protecting Your Hair from the Sun
The sun’s UV rays can damage your hair and cause the color to fade. Wear a hat or scarf when you’re spending extended periods of time in the sun. You can also use hair products that contain UV filters to protect your hair from sun damage.
Regular Trims
Getting regular trims helps to remove split ends and prevent breakage, which can make your highlights look dull and lifeless. Aim to get a trim every 6-8 weeks to keep your hair healthy and vibrant.
Navigating the Gray Areas: Specific Scenarios and Solutions
Even with these guidelines, some situations might leave you wondering whether to wash your hair or not. Here are a few specific scenarios and how to handle them.
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Working Out: Exercise can lead to a sweaty scalp, which might make you feel like you need to wash your hair sooner. If you must wash it, use a gentle, color-safe shampoo and focus on cleansing the scalp. Alternatively, try using dry shampoo to absorb the sweat and oil.
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Oily Scalp: If you have an oily scalp, waiting 48-72 hours can feel like an eternity. In this case, you can try using a clarifying shampoo sparingly, but only after the recommended waiting period has passed. Be sure to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner to replenish any lost moisture.
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Post-Color Treatment Smell: Some people find the lingering smell of hair dye or chemicals unpleasant. While tempting, avoid washing immediately. Instead, try using a scented dry shampoo or a hair perfume to mask the odor.
Conclusion: The Key to Lasting Highlighted Hair
Ultimately, the decision of when to wash your highlighted hair is a personal one. While the 48-72 hour rule is a good guideline, it’s important to consider your hair type, condition, and lifestyle. By understanding the science behind color fading and adopting a comprehensive hair care routine, you can extend the life of your highlights and keep your hair looking healthy and vibrant for longer.
Remember, consulting with your hairstylist is always the best way to get personalized advice and recommendations for your specific hair needs. They can assess your hair’s condition and provide tailored guidance on how to maintain your highlights. By following these tips, you can enjoy your beautiful, highlighted hair for weeks to come.
How long should I ideally wait to wash my hair after getting highlights?
The golden rule is to wait at least 72 hours (3 days) after getting your highlights before washing your hair. This waiting period is crucial because it allows the hair cuticle to fully close and seal in the hair dye. When your hair is highlighted, the chemical process opens the hair cuticle to deposit the color. Washing too soon can cause the color molecules to escape, leading to faster fading and brassiness, especially with lighter shades.
Furthermore, waiting allows the hair’s natural oils to replenish and rehydrate the strands, which are often stripped during the highlighting process. This natural oil buildup helps to protect the hair from further damage and keeps your highlights looking vibrant for longer. Think of it as giving your hair a chance to recover and settle after a chemical treatment.
What happens if I wash my hair sooner than 72 hours after highlights?
Washing your hair too soon after getting highlights can significantly impact the longevity and vibrancy of your color. The hair cuticle, still in a vulnerable and open state, will release the dye molecules more easily when exposed to water and shampoo. This leads to the highlights fading faster than they should, potentially resulting in a dull or brassy appearance, especially for blonde or lighter highlighted hair.
In addition to color fade, premature washing can also dry out your hair further. The highlighting process itself can be drying, and washing too soon removes the natural oils that are trying to replenish. This can leave your hair feeling brittle, prone to breakage, and generally less healthy. Essentially, you’re undoing some of the work your stylist did to create beautiful, healthy-looking highlights.
Can I use dry shampoo during the waiting period after getting highlights?
Absolutely! Dry shampoo is your best friend during the 72-hour waiting period. It helps absorb excess oil and grease at the roots, keeping your hair looking fresh and clean without the need for water and shampoo. This is crucial for maintaining your highlights’ vibrancy and preventing premature fading while you allow your hair’s cuticle to properly seal.
When using dry shampoo, be sure to apply it correctly. Hold the can about 6-8 inches away from your scalp and spray in short bursts, focusing on the roots. Massage it in with your fingertips to distribute the product evenly and absorb the oil. Choose a dry shampoo formulated for color-treated hair to further protect your highlights from dullness and discoloration.
Are there specific shampoos I should use after the 72-hour waiting period?
Yes, selecting the right shampoo after getting highlights is essential for maintaining their color and health. Opt for sulfate-free shampoos specifically designed for color-treated hair. Sulfates are harsh detergents that can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause color to fade quickly. Sulfate-free formulas are gentler and help to prolong the life of your highlights.
In addition to being sulfate-free, consider using a shampoo that also contains moisturizing ingredients like argan oil, shea butter, or keratin. These ingredients help to replenish moisture lost during the highlighting process and keep your hair hydrated, smooth, and shiny. Purple shampoos can also be beneficial for blonde or light-colored highlights to neutralize any brassiness and maintain a cool, bright tone.
How often should I wash my highlighted hair after the initial waiting period?
Once you’ve passed the initial 72-hour waiting period, try to wash your highlighted hair no more than 2-3 times per week. Over-washing can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause the color to fade faster. The less frequently you wash, the longer your highlights will retain their vibrancy and shine.
Between washes, rely on dry shampoo to keep your hair looking fresh and clean. When you do wash, use lukewarm water instead of hot water, as hot water can also contribute to color fading. Always follow up with a color-safe conditioner to replenish moisture and detangle your hair. Regular conditioning is crucial for maintaining healthy, highlighted hair.
Does the type of hair I have affect how long I should wait to wash it after highlights?
Yes, your hair type can influence the ideal waiting period after getting highlights. If you have fine or oily hair, waiting the full 72 hours might be challenging, as your hair may become visibly greasy. In such cases, using dry shampoo extensively can help extend the time between washes without compromising the color.
For thicker or drier hair types, waiting the full 72 hours is generally more manageable and highly recommended. Drier hair tends to absorb and retain moisture better, so the natural oil buildup during the waiting period can actually be beneficial. Ultimately, pay attention to your hair’s condition and adjust the waiting period accordingly, always prioritizing the health and longevity of your highlights.
Can I swim after getting highlights? If so, how long should I wait?
Swimming, especially in chlorinated pools, can be damaging to highlighted hair and should be avoided for at least two weeks after getting your highlights. Chlorine can strip the hair of its natural oils, causing it to become dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. It can also react with the color molecules, leading to fading, discoloration, and even a greenish tint, particularly in blonde or light-colored hair.
If you must swim, take precautions to protect your hair. Wet your hair thoroughly with fresh water before entering the pool, as this will help prevent it from absorbing as much chlorine. Apply a leave-in conditioner or hair oil to create a barrier. Wear a tight-fitting swim cap to minimize exposure to the chlorinated water. After swimming, rinse your hair immediately with fresh water and use a clarifying shampoo to remove any residual chlorine. Follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture and prevent damage.