The world of hair bleaching can be daunting, especially with the numerous options available for achieving the perfect shade of blonde. One of the most critical decisions you’ll make in this journey is choosing the right developer to use with your bleach. The developer, essentially a hydrogen peroxide solution, plays a crucial role in determining how light your hair will become and how healthy it remains post-bleaching. Two of the most commonly debated volumes of developer are 20 and 30 volume. But which one should you use? In this article, we’ll delve into the details of each, discussing their effects, appropriate uses, and the factors you should consider before making your decision.
Understanding Volume Developers
Before we dive into the specifics of 20 and 30 volume developers, it’s essential to understand what volume means in this context. The volume of a developer refers to its strength, measured by the percentage of hydrogen peroxide it contains. The higher the volume, the stronger the developer, and consequently, the more lift it provides. However, with greater lift comes a higher risk of damage to the hair.
Developer Volumes and Their Uses
Developers come in various volumes, including 10, 20, 30, and 40. Each has its specific application based on the desired outcome and the condition of the hair.
- 10 Volume (3%): Used for depositing color or toning.
- 20 Volume (6%): Suitable for most applications, including covering grey hair, and for use with permanent hair color.
- 30 Volume (9%): Ideal for lifting the hair up to 3 levels, especially when used with bleach or high-lift colors.
- 40 Volume (12%): Used for significant hair lifting, typically up to 4 levels, but poses a higher risk of damage.
20 Volume Developer: A Balanced Approach
A 20 volume developer is considered a versatile option, suitable for a wide range of hair bleaching and coloring applications. It provides enough lift for most users without being too harsh on the hair.
Advantages of 20 Volume Developer
The 20 volume developer offers several advantages:
– Moderate Lift: It lifts the hair up to 2 levels, which is sufficient for many users looking for a subtle change.
– Less Damage: Compared to higher volumes, it is less damaging to the hair, making it a safer choice for those concerned about hair health.
– Versatility: It can be used for both bleaching and coloring, offering flexibility in hair care routines.
Disadvantages of 20 Volume Developer
While the 20 volume developer is versatile, it also has some limitations:
– Insufficient Lift for Some: For individuals seeking a more dramatic change, especially those with very dark hair, 20 volume might not provide enough lift.
– Not Ideal for Virgin Hair: If you’re looking to bleach virgin hair significantly, 20 volume might not be strong enough, potentially requiring multiple sessions and increasing the risk of damage.
30 Volume Developer: For More Significant Lift
For those seeking a more pronounced blonde effect, the 30 volume developer is often considered the next step. It provides a stronger formula than the 20 volume, capable of lifting the hair up to 3 levels.
Advantages of 30 Volume Developer
The advantages of using a 30 volume developer include:
– Greater Lift: It offers more significant lifting capabilities, making it ideal for those with darker hair or those looking for a more dramatic blonde result.
– Efficiency: It can achieve the desired results in fewer sessions compared to lower volume developers, which is beneficial for minimizing overall hair damage.
Disadvantages of 30 Volume Developer
However, the 30 volume developer also comes with some drawbacks:
– Higher Risk of Damage: The stronger formula poses a greater risk of damaging the hair, including dryness, breakage, and over-processing.
– Requires More Care: Using a 30 volume developer necessitates careful application and monitoring to avoid over-processing and subsequent hair damage.
Choosing Between 20 and 30 Volume Developer
The decision between a 20 and 30 volume developer should be based on your hair’s current condition, your desired outcome, and your hair care experience level.
Consider Your Hair Type and Condition
- For Damaged or Over-processed Hair: A 20 volume developer is recommended to minimize further damage.
- For Healthy, Virgin Hair: A 30 volume developer can be used, but with caution and proper care to avoid damaging the hair.
Consider Your Desired Outcome
- <strong_For Subtle Changes: 20 volume is sufficient.
- For More Dramatic Changes: 30 volume might be necessary, but proceed with caution.
Application Tips for Safe and Effective Use
Regardless of the developer volume you choose, proper application and care are crucial for achieving the desired results without compromising your hair’s health. Always follow the instructions, perform a strand test before applying the bleach and developer mixture to your entire head, and consider consulting a professional if you’re unsure.
In conclusion, the choice between a 20 and 30 volume developer depends on your specific needs and hair condition. It’s essential to weigh the potential benefits against the risks and to take necessary precautions to protect your hair. Whether you’re aiming for a subtle, natural look or a more dramatic blonde effect, understanding the role of the developer and choosing the right volume for your needs is the first step towards achieving beautiful, healthy-looking hair.
What is the difference between 20 and 30 volume bleach for hair?
The primary distinction between 20 and 30 volume bleach lies in their developer strengths, which determine how much they can lighten the hair. A 20 volume developer is considered mild and is used for minor corrections or maintaining current hair color. It lifts the hair one to two shades and is ideal for those with fragile, damaged, or over-processed hair. On the other hand, a 30 volume developer is stronger, lifting the hair two to three shades. It is typically used for more dramatic color changes or for applying bleach to virgin hair.
Choosing between these two volumes depends on the desired outcome and the current condition of the hair. For individuals seeking a subtle change or with hair that is already weakened, a 20 volume developer is the safer choice to avoid further damage. However, for those looking for a more significant lightening effect, the 30 volume developer may be necessary. It’s crucial to consider the condition of the hair and the degree of lightening desired before making a decision, as using too high a volume can lead to damage, breakage, or unwanted results.
How do I decide which volume of bleach to use on my hair?
The decision on which volume of bleach to use should be based on the current condition of your hair and the desired lightening effect. If you’re aiming for a minor adjustment or have previously colored or damaged hair, opting for a lower volume such as 20 might be more appropriate. This is because lower volume developers are less damaging and can help preserve the hair’s integrity. Conversely, if you’re looking for a more dramatic lightening effect and have healthy, virgin hair, a higher volume like 30 could be considered.
It’s also important to consider your hair’s porosity, elasticity, and the presence of any previous chemical treatments when deciding on the volume. Most professional hairstylists perform a strand test before the actual application to ensure the chosen volume achieves the desired result without causing undue damage. If you’re unsure, consulting with a professional hairstylist can provide personalized guidance tailored to your hair’s specific needs and conditions, helping you make an informed decision.
Can I use 30 volume bleach on damaged hair?
Using 30 volume bleach on damaged hair is generally not recommended due to the high risk of further damage or breakage. Damaged hair lacks the strength and resilience to withstand the oxidative stress caused by high-volume developers. Applying a 30 volume bleach to damaged hair can lead to over-processing, resulting in brittle, fragile hair that may break easily. Additionally, high lift bleaches can cause the hair cuticle to lift excessively, leading to a rough, porous texture that is prone to further damage.
For damaged hair, it’s often advised to use a lower volume developer such as 20 volume or even lower, depending on the extent of the damage. A gentler approach may involve using a pre-color treatment to repair and strengthen the hair before any lightening process. Furthermore, considering alternative lightening methods or seeking the advice of a professional hairstylist can help in achieving the desired color while minimizing the risk of additional damage to the hair.
How does hair porosity affect the choice between 20 and 30 volume bleach?
Hair porosity plays a significant role in determining how well the hair can absorb and process the bleach. Hair with low porosity has a compact cuticle layer, making it more challenging for the bleach to penetrate. In such cases, a higher volume developer like 30 may be necessary to achieve the desired lightening. Conversely, hair with high porosity has a more open cuticle layer, allowing for easier penetration but also increasing the risk of over-processing. For highly porous hair, a lower volume developer such as 20 might be more suitable to avoid excessive lightening and potential damage.
Understanding your hair’s porosity can help in selecting the right volume of bleach. A porosity test can be conducted to determine the hair’s ability to absorb water and chemicals, guiding the choice of developer. For example, if the hair has low porosity, using a 30 volume developer with a gentle, moisturizing bleach might be the best approach. On the other hand, for hair with high porosity, using a 20 volume developer and taking extra precautions to moisturize and condition the hair post-bleaching can help mitigate potential risks.
Can I mix 20 and 30 volume bleach to achieve a medium strength?
While it might seem like a viable option to mix 20 and 30 volume bleach to achieve a medium strength, it’s not a recommended practice. Developer strengths are formulated to work within specific parameters, and mixing them can lead to unpredictable results. The active ingredients in bleach developers are carefully balanced to achieve the desired lifting effect while minimizing damage at their respective volumes. Mixing different volumes can disrupt this balance, potentially leading to uneven lightening, increased damage, or other undesirable outcomes.
Instead of mixing, it’s advisable to select the developer volume that best matches your hair’s needs and the desired outcome. If a medium strength between 20 and 30 volume is required, it might be more appropriate to look for a 25 volume developer, which is specifically formulated to provide a balanced lightening effect. Always follow the instructions and guidelines provided with the bleach kit, and consider consulting a professional hairstylist if you’re unsure about the best approach for your hair.
How long should I leave the bleach on my hair with a 20 or 30 volume developer?
The processing time for bleach with a 20 or 30 volume developer depends on several factors, including the desired lightening effect, the starting color of the hair, and the condition of the hair. Generally, a 20 volume developer requires a longer processing time compared to a 30 volume developer due to its milder lifting power. For 20 volume, the processing time can range from 20 to 45 minutes, while for 30 volume, it’s typically between 15 to 30 minutes. However, these times are approximate and may need to be adjusted based on the specific hair type and the progress of the lightening process.
It’s crucial to monitor the processing time closely and to check the hair regularly to avoid over-processing. Over-processing can lead to damage, breakage, or undesirable color results. The use of a timer and regular strand checks can help in achieving the desired outcome safely. Additionally, following the instructions provided with the bleach kit and considering the advice of a professional hairstylist can ensure that the bleach is left on for the optimal amount of time, maximizing the results while minimizing the risks.
What are the after-care steps following a 20 or 30 volume bleach application?
After applying bleach with a 20 or 30 volume developer, proper after-care is essential to restore the hair’s health and moisture. Immediately following the bleach application, a thorough rinse with warm water should be done, followed by a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. A deep conditioning treatment or a hair mask can also be applied to help repair and hydrate the hair. Additionally, using color-protecting and moisturizing products in the days and weeks that follow can help maintain the health and vibrancy of the bleached hair.
Regular trims, avoiding heat styling tools, and minimizing further chemical treatments can also contribute to the long-term health of the hair. It’s also recommended to wait a period before applying any additional chemical treatments to allow the hair to recover fully. A well-planned after-care routine can make a significant difference in how well the hair recovers from the bleaching process, helping to prevent dryness, breakage, and color fade. Consulting with a professional hairstylist can provide personalized advice on the best after-care practices tailored to your specific hair needs and conditions.